BUYING GUIDES / FIELD GUIDE 04
Buy the individual watch, with its history in view.
A model reference tells you what a watch was designed to be. A pre-owned example also has a story: wear, repairs, replacement parts and the way it has been kept. A useful purchase check brings those details together before you decide.
Use this guide at a shop counter or alongside an online listing. It is a way to organise questions and evidence, not a test that authenticates a watch.
1. Start with the exact watch
Record the full model reference, movement or module number when available, and the seller’s description. Compare the stated dial, case and bracelet with suitable manufacturer information. For older references, an archived catalogue or a specialist may be needed.
Online, ask for clear photographs of the actual item: the dial, crystal, both case sides, case back, bracelet and clasp. A stock photograph cannot show the condition of the watch being sold. Keep a copy of the listing and the seller’s answers.
Check who is selling it, how to contact them after purchase and who will appear on the receipt. A familiar model name does not resolve a mismatch in the details.
2. Look beyond a clean dial
In good light, inspect scratches or chips on the crystal, dents on the case and damage around the crown. Look for visible moisture or discolouration and ask for an explanation of anything you cannot interpret. Surface appearance alone does not reveal the condition inside.
Try it on with permission. Check that the clasp closes securely, the bracelet fits and any adjustment leaves a comfortable fit. Ask how many spare links are included. For straps, consider whether wear makes replacement part of your immediate budget.
Ask whether the case has been polished or refinished. If original finishing matters to you, have a knowledgeable specialist assess it rather than drawing a conclusion from one photograph.
3. Ask what “serviced” means
A description such as “checked” or “serviced” needs detail. Ask for the date, the business that did the work and an invoice or report identifying the watch. Find out whether the work was a battery change, regulation, repair, overhaul or something else.
Ask which parts were replaced and whether the work has its own warranty. If there are no records, note the history as unknown instead of treating a verbal claim as a documented overhaul. Discuss likely inspection and service needs with someone who can work on the exact movement.
4. Separate replacement parts from authenticity
Ask specifically about the dial, hands, bezel, crown, crystal, bracelet and movement. Were any parts replaced during manufacturer service? Are any aftermarket, modified or refinished? Record what the seller knows and what remains uncertain.
A replacement service part and an aftermarket modification are different disclosures. Whether either suits you depends on your purpose; neither a box nor a warranty card by itself answers every question about the watch.
If a seller offers authentication or certification, read exactly what it covers, who performed it and the report’s exceptions. For example, Chrono24 describes its own certification checks; that scope should not be assumed for another seller’s certificate. When originality is central to the purchase, arrange an assessment by an appropriate specialist.
5. Demonstrate functions; request test details
Ask the seller to demonstrate the relevant functions according to the correct manual: time setting, calendar, chronograph, alarm or other features. Do not force a crown or press unfamiliar controls just to see what happens. Our official-manual guide helps you identify the instructions.
A watch running at the counter is useful to observe, but it does not establish its accuracy over time or full power reserve. If measurements are supplied, ask when and how they were taken and compare them with the specifications for that movement.
Check water resistance separately. Seiko explains that water resistance is not permanently guaranteed. A case-back marking is not evidence of a recent test. Ask for the date and result of any pressure test, and seek model-appropriate advice before water use. Never test it by putting the watch in water yourself.
6. Read the terms before paying
Distinguish the manufacturer’s warranty from a warranty supplied by the shop. Ask who handles claims, what is covered, how long coverage lasts and what happens if you live overseas. Get important answers in writing.
Confirm return and exchange conditions for this transaction, including the procedure, deadlines and any exclusions. Ask whether sizing or wearing the watch changes those conditions. Do not assume one store’s policy applies at another.
Record the final price and included work: bracelet sizing, any agreed service, shipping if relevant, and all accessories. Allow for any known immediate work when comparing two watches. For Japanese counter conversations, open our show-in-store phrase cards.
Your counter checklist
Tick items as you confirm them. These ticks are a temporary reading aid and are not saved as a purchase record; keep your own notes and documents.
When to pause
Pause if the reference does not match the description, important answers change, or the evidence needed for your decision is unavailable. Ask for clarification or a professional assessment. You do not need to diagnose the problem yourself to decide that you need more information.
The aim is a watch you understand and enjoy, with the condition and terms clear enough for your decision.
CONTINUE THE FIELD GUIDES
Sources checked 15 September 2026: Seiko’s official water-resistance guidance and Chrono24’s description of its certification service, linked above. Questions and checklist are original editorial guidance. This article does not report a store visit or hands-on inspection of a particular watch.
