Kentex Explained: Its Watchmaking Story, Marine GMT and Craftsman

BRAND PORTRAITS / 05 / KENTEX

A blue mother-of-pearl GMT and a mechanical watch with Edo Kiriko glass: two different ways to discover Kentex.

Kentex deserves a place in a Japanese-watch shortlist that looks beyond the most familiar names. For this introduction, our two starting references are the Marine GMT S820X-13 and Craftsman S901X-01. Together, they provide a more revealing route into the catalogue than judging the brand from a single entry-level watch.

Kentex Marine GMT S820X-13 with an aqua-blue mother-of-pearl dial and steel bracelet.
MARINE GMT / S820X-13
Aqua-blue mother-of-pearl and GMT.
Image: KENTEX official shop
Kentex Craftsman Tokiho S901X-01 with a dark-blue dial and integrated steel bracelet.
CRAFTSMAN TOKIHO / S901X-01
Dark-blue dial and sculpted steel case.
Image: KENTEX official shop

From manufacturing to its own brand

1989Kenji Hashimoto establishes Kentex Time in Hong Kong, supplying watches to other brands.
1998The Kentex brand launches in earnest with the S82M.
1999The ESPY S153M becomes its first own-brand automatic model.

These milestones come from Kentex’s official history. They distinguish the manufacturing business from the later development of its own branded watches. The company’s history also records both Japanese and Swiss movement projects, so production details should be checked by reference rather than assumed across the entire catalogue.

Two references to put on the shortlist

The table uses published manufacturer specifications. The selection reflects our editorial interests; it is not a hands-on test or a claim that either reference is currently in stock.

DetailMarine GMT S820X-13Craftsman S901X-01
Design focusAqua-blue mother-of-pearl dial and GMT displayDark-blue dial and Edo Kiriko display-back glass
MovementNH34 automatic GMT9039 automatic, three hands
Case diameter44.8 mm42.0 mm
Thickness13.9 mm11.2 mm
Listed weightApprox. 220 gApprox. 180 g
CrystalSapphireSapphire
Listed water resistance150 m10 bar
Edition99 pieces88 pieces

Sources: Kentex official shop: S820X-13 and Kentex: S901X-01. The S820X-13 shop page has an inconsistent model number in its English product-name field; this table follows the page’s S820X-13 heading and Japanese specification. Confirm the reference on your order.

S820X-13: start with colour and a second time zone

The Marine GMT is the direction to explore if a distinctive blue dial and an additional time-zone display are central to the appeal. Its published dimensions suggest that trying it on matters: do not choose from a front-on photograph alone. Ask to see how the bracelet sits and how you would use the GMT hand in your own routine.

S901X-01: look beyond the dial

The Craftsman’s Edo Kiriko glass case back gives you a reason to turn the watch over. Compared with the Marine GMT above, the listed case is narrower and thinner. It is a starting point for someone whose interest is in materials, case detailing and the view of the movement.

Where these watches sit in the range

The official collection directory also includes JSDF, Skyman, Landman, Marineman, ESPY and Progauss. Craftsman is presented as a flagship line, while Marine GMT gives a clear route into its GMT offering. Use those names as browsing directions and inspect the exact reference before comparing specifications.

Read military connections precisely.

A JSDF-branded commercial watch should not automatically be described as standard military-issued equipment. Keep claims about collaboration, emblems and procurement separate, and use the manufacturer’s wording carefully when researching a particular model.

Buying from outside Japan

Before purchase, ask the seller to confirm availability, the complete reference and who handles warranty work where you live. Establish whether any owner-registration benefits apply to your purchase and region. Limited production is a detail to record, not a substitute for a clear return policy or a comfortable fit.

For either of our two starting references, compare the total wearing experience: weight, bracelet adjustment, clasp and legibility. Read the manual before operating the date or GMT controls. Our movement guide and Japanese shopping phrases can help you prepare the next questions.

Editorial introduction based on the linked manufacturer sources, checked 16 September 2026. This is not a hands-on review. Collection availability and specifications vary by reference and market.

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